Help. Building a house

[jjwv_mu]

I finally got my land prepped. Trees are gone, land graded, and now the fun is about to begin. I would like some of your input on a few ideas my wife and I have.

1. HVAC standard unit or ductless units? It's a new home and I've been told that price will end up being about the same since labor for a ductless is only a day or two compared to a week for standard HVAC. Does anyone have one of these ductless systems? What are your thoughts on them? I'm intrigued by them.

2. Basement or crawl space? I really want a basement. Which will also serve as my garage. So I will either have it above grade or I will have to dig out from side of house a bit and have front/back at grade while one side will be open below grade. I don't like that option because the land we chose is wooded on a sloping lot and we have just about 60 feet of flat yard and digging it will take that all away.

I'm sure over the next 12-18 months I'll be periodically on here asking 1,000 questions. Please be patient with me. Thanks.

 

[DvlDog4WVU]

I finally got my land prepped. Trees are gone, land graded, and now the fun is about to begin. I would like some of your input on a few ideas my wife and I have.

1. HVAC standard unit or ductless units? It's a new home and I've been told that price will end up being about the same since labor for a ductless is only a day or two compared to a week for standard HVAC. Does anyone have one of these ductless systems? What are your thoughts on them? I'm intrigued by them.

2. Basement or crawl space? I really want a basement. Which will also serve as my garage. So I will either have it above grade or I will have to dig out from side of house a bit and have front/back at grade while one side will be open below grade. I don't like that option because the land we chose is wooded on a sloping lot and we have just about 60 feet of flat yard and digging it will take that all away.

I'm sure over the next 12-18 months I'll be periodically on here asking 1,000 questions. Please be patient with me. Thanks.

Tankless water heaters, natural gas, and a 20kw standby generator. Get HVAC dedicated for each floor. Plumb your house for smart technology and zoned music setups (consult a tech guy, can save you so much ass pain).

 

[jjwv_mu]

Tankless water heaters, natural gas, and a 20kw standby generator. Get HVAC dedicated for each floor. Plumb your house for smart technology and zoned music setups (consult a tech guy, can save you so much ass pain).

1. Natural gas would mean renting a tank for me because there's not a gas line where I'll be building.

2. The water heater is something I will need advice on. I've heard both pros and cons to tankless systems. Would I need just one tankless system or two? Family of 4. One bath upstairs, one downstairs.

 

[DvlDog4WVU]

1. Natural gas would mean renting a tank for me because there's not a gas line where I'll be building.

2. The water heater is something I will need advice on. I've heard both pros and cons to tankless systems. Would I need just one tankless system or two? Family of 4. One bath upstairs, one downstairs.

I have a family of 4 as well. As long as you have power, you have hot water. Memorial weekend, I have 4 additional family’s of 4 staying at my house. Never run out of hot water. The only negative to it is it takes about 5 minutes to heat the water up (it’s actually the pipes throughout the house). I usually start my shower, read the boards, whilst having my morning glory and then jump in. I’ll never not have one again.

We have washer and dryers on the top floor where most of the bedrooms are and another set down on the main floor. Can’t begin to tell you how awesome that is.

Kitchen is most used room in the house. Make it a room you want to be in and entertain in. 2 ovens is a must.

Incorporate usb with all of your logical receptacles where you might think about hooking up.

Good luck.

 

[roadtrasheer]

Ductless is more efficient, for obvious reasons & should save a bunch of money in the long run.
Go tankless can have one main unit then a couple electric units under sinks, very efficient way to go , but a tankless is the best .

 

[bornaneer]

I have a Generac 20kw standby generator and I would advise getting a different brand if you go with a generator. Have had several mechanical issues with it and parts are very expensive.

 

[eerdoc]

I finally got my land prepped. Trees are gone, land graded, and now the fun is about to begin. I would like some of your input on a few ideas my wife and I have.

1. HVAC standard unit or ductless units? It's a new home and I've been told that price will end up being about the same since labor for a ductless is only a day or two compared to a week for standard HVAC. Does anyone have one of these ductless systems? What are your thoughts on them? I'm intrigued by them.

2. Basement or crawl space? I really want a basement. Which will also serve as my garage. So I will either have it above grade or I will have to dig out from side of house a bit and have front/back at grade while one side will be open below grade. I don't like that option because the land we chose is wooded on a sloping lot and we have just about 60 feet of flat yard and digging it will take that all away.

I'm sure over the next 12-18 months I'll be periodically on here asking 1,000 questions. Please be patient with me. Thanks.

#1--Consider geothermal, IF soil conditions will allow. Have friends with it (not In WV) and are overjoyed
#2--Basement if possible and affordable

Two small items that I think are necessary:
In major living areas--Family room, living room, all bed rooms--wire using THREE conductor cable not two. This will allow having one half of EACH outlet hot while the other is on switch(s). This provides a switched outlet anywhere within the room (and on one or more switches, if so desired, for flexibility). Minimal cost difference also. Suggest you either use double gang outlets (two in same box--could also wire with one hot and one on switch) or just add a few more outlets in each room.

Also consider adding solenoid activation of water to the clothes washer. We all hear stories about leaks in this area that floods and causes major damage. The solenoid allows water pressure to be OFF until activated when doing a load of clothed. Again, minimal cost and lists of security. Especially desirable if laundry on other than basement or lowest floor.

Pre-wire for TV/stereo, phone and computer/other communications with foresight into what is coming in the future.

 

[Shirley Knott]

1. Natural gas would mean renting a tank for me because there's not a gas line where I'll be building.

2. The water heater is something I will need advice on. I've heard both pros and cons to tankless systems. Would I need just one tankless system or two? Family of 4. One bath upstairs, one downstairs.

Gas Tankless will save much money over time. Locate it as central to home as possible because there is a few seconds delay to get heated water from heater to faucet(a switch activated recirculating pump can be installed to cut out that delay).

 

[dave]

I recommend a basement if practical. simply based on future work in the house you will love having your utilities in a basement vs a crawl space.

 

[countryroads89]

Don’t have any qualms about anything said above except geothermal.

DO NOT go geothermal. It takes too long to recoup the savings to pay for the substantial initial investment.

Try to imcorporate natural gas if you can. So much more economical than electric. You can use a tank (can be unsightly and is a hassle getting refilled periodically) but it will save you lots of money every month - from heating to hot water and even your clothes dryer.

#1 most important rule - make sure to take care of water. Use foundation drains. Slightly slope your yard away from your house. Get those gutter downspouts drained away from your house. If you do end up going with the basement, care of water will be a challenge as you have described. Put in a good drain near the entrance to the basement as you are sloping the ground toward your house for access. Make sure the exterior of your concrete block in your basement area is waterproofed/sealed well to prevent intrusion.

 

[Soaring Eagle 74]

I finally got my land prepped. Trees are gone, land graded, and now the fun is about to begin. I would like some of your input on a few ideas my wife and I have.

1. HVAC standard unit or ductless units? It's a new home and I've been told that price will end up being about the same since labor for a ductless is only a day or two compared to a week for standard HVAC. Does anyone have one of these ductless systems? What are your thoughts on them? I'm intrigued by them.

2. Basement or crawl space? I really want a basement. Which will also serve as my garage. So I will either have it above grade or I will have to dig out from side of house a bit and have front/back at grade while one side will be open below grade. I don't like that option because the land we chose is wooded on a sloping lot and we have just about 60 feet of flat yard and digging it will take that all away.

I'm sure over the next 12-18 months I'll be periodically on here asking 1,000 questions. Please be patient with me. Thanks.

Basement. You’ll regret it later if you don’t do it now. PEC tubing for plumbing, with individual shut-off valves for every line. Attic fan. This will save you a lot of money on a/c bills, and it’s inexpensive.

Whatever you think you lighting budget is, double it. Think about SIPs.

 

[mneilmont]

Did you say where you are building? Brick or wood siding? Would suggest you let land settle after new grader work(whole season if possible). Locate water heater as close to baths as possible. Washer and dish washer close to HWH is more efficient.

If you go with basement, use caution on dampness and mildew/mold.

 

[Airport]

No wood siding. Vinyl is final. No wooden windows. Which way will your house face? If it faces south, and you have huge windows, it will cost more to cool it.

 

[Mntneer]

I finally got my land prepped. Trees are gone, land graded, and now the fun is about to begin. I would like some of your input on a few ideas my wife and I have.

1. HVAC standard unit or ductless units? It's a new home and I've been told that price will end up being about the same since labor for a ductless is only a day or two compared to a week for standard HVAC. Does anyone have one of these ductless systems? What are your thoughts on them? I'm intrigued by them.

2. Basement or crawl space? I really want a basement. Which will also serve as my garage. So I will either have it above grade or I will have to dig out from side of house a bit and have front/back at grade while one side will be open below grade. I don't like that option because the land we chose is wooded on a sloping lot and we have just about 60 feet of flat yard and digging it will take that all away.

I'm sure over the next 12-18 months I'll be periodically on here asking 1,000 questions. Please be patient with me. Thanks.

Congrats on the exciting time..... and the horribly painful time.

As the architect, builder and owner of my own home, I hated the architect in the morning, the builder in the afternoon and the owner at night.

1) Standard HVAC is fine these days. Ductless units are great if you're looking for a more zoned heating and cooling solution (actually finished installing a ductless system in my garage today) but all in all, you probably would do fine with a standard heat pump. We've down massive ductless systems in office buildings, where zone temperature control is vital, but in a residential setting, you probably don't have those needs. Plus, even the ceiling mounted ductless systems are bit obtrusive and may be ore of an eyesore than you're willing to accept.

2) Basement if you can afford it, with at least 10 foot ceiling from TOS to bottom of joist. Also, run a 3" conduit from the basement to the attic space for future expansion.

3) Like Dog said, prewire for a network and any distributed audio or video. I always recommend a 2x2 to each TV location (2 RG6 and 2 Cat6). Our company has a division that does automation and integration systems in residential and commercial construction (we are a Control4 based dealer) and I would be glad to give you advice and suggestions. But if you ever plan on working from home, or want to have any automation, a rock solid network is an absolute must, it's as important as the house foundation itself these days. And I'm talking dedicated Wireless Access Points and high quality routers and switches, not the crap you buy at Best Buy.

4) Don't overthink your lighting and electrical layout. You don't need as many 3 way circuits as you may think you need. One, they only add to your cost and two, they many times are necessary in real world use. I regret a number of the circuit I have in my house, even with automated lighting. Oh, and NO DOG LEG (switch leg) LIGHTING. Do NOT let the electrician bring power for lights from the light itself. All Lines and Neutrals should first be wired to switches, then out to lights. Switch Leg lighting is a major pain in the ass if you plan on adding smart lighting down the road. Also, don't let them wire outlets from those switches, as it will overcrowd boxes and make future work more difficult. Keep the runs clean and orderly.

5) Tankless water heaters are fantastic, especially if you are on a well and are not paying for water. We have a unit for the upstairs and kitchen and a unit for our Master Bath. Just be sure to pair them with a solid and dependable softener system, as lime build up can ruin them just as badly as it can tanks. I love mine, especially since my wife likes to take long hot baths, and the kids are in the shower all the time. Hot water is never an issue in the house.

6) Start picking out finishes NOW. Don't wait. Lock down all those small little items people sometimes forget. Like what type of door stops do you want, what type of flooring transitions do you want.

7) Make sure you have a foundation drain installed, and I'd have them tie all downspouts into a separate drain system. Keep the water away from the house.

 

[jjwv_mu]

Quick question. KY Power recommended underground service. Overhead is free, but with all the trees around the lot the guy said he thinks he can get AEP to provide the transformer for free if I dig the trench, lay the line and conduit, then he would do the hookup.

My question is: whatpower cable so I need? I know some are not for underground or in conduit and others are.

Thanks.

 

[Mntneer]

Quick question. KY Power recommended underground service. Overhead is free, but with all the trees around the lot the guy said he thinks he can get AEP to provide the transformer for free if I dig the trench, lay the line and conduit, then he would do the hookup.

My question is: whatpower cable so I need? I know some are not for underground or in conduit and others are.

Thanks.

Consult with a local electrician as to what you'll need. Best to pull enough to run at least a 200 amp service. Site guy can lay the conduit, electrician can pull the wire. While they are at it, have any other utilities like Phone and Cable to run their lines as well while the trench is open.

 

[The Dunedein]

Congrats on the exciting time..... and the horribly painful time.

As the architect, builder and owner of my own home, I hated the architect in the morning, the builder in the afternoon and the owner at night.

1) Standard HVAC is fine these days. Ductless units are great if you're looking for a more zoned heating and cooling solution (actually finished installing a ductless system in my garage today) but all in all, you probably would do fine with a standard heat pump. We've down massive ductless systems in office buildings, where zone temperature control is vital, but in a residential setting, you probably don't have those needs. Plus, even the ceiling mounted ductless systems are bit obtrusive and may be ore of an eyesore than you're willing to accept.

2) Basement if you can afford it, with at least 10 foot ceiling from TOS to bottom of joist. Also, run a 3" conduit from the basement to the attic space for future expansion.

3) Like Dog said, prewire for a network and any distributed audio or video. I always recommend a 2x2 to each TV location (2 RG6 and 2 Cat6). Our company has a division that does automation and integration systems in residential and commercial construction (we are a Control4 based dealer) and I would be glad to give you advice and suggestions. But if you ever plan on working from home, or want to have any automation, a rock solid network is an absolute must, it's as important as the house foundation itself these days. And I'm talking dedicated Wireless Access Points and high quality routers and switches, not the crap you buy at Best Buy.

4) Don't overthink your lighting and electrical layout. You don't need as many 3 way circuits as you may think you need. One, they only add to your cost and two, they many times are necessary in real world use. I regret a number of the circuit I have in my house, even with automated lighting. Oh, and NO DOG LEG (switch leg) LIGHTING. Do NOT let the electrician bring power for lights from the light itself. All Lines and Neutrals should first be wired to switches, then out to lights. Switch Leg lighting is a major pain in the ass if you plan on adding smart lighting down the road. Also, don't let them wire outlets from those switches, as it will overcrowd boxes and make future work more difficult. Keep the runs clean and orderly.

5) Tankless water heaters are fantastic, especially if you are on a well and are not paying for water. We have a unit for the upstairs and kitchen and a unit for our Master Bath. Just be sure to pair them with a solid and dependable softener system, as lime build up can ruin them just as badly as it can tanks. I love mine, especially since my wife likes to take long hot baths, and the kids are in the shower all the time. Hot water is never an issue in the house.

6) Start picking out finishes NOW. Don't wait. Lock down all those small little items people sometimes forget. Like what type of door stops do you want, what type of flooring transitions do you want.

7) Make sure you have a foundation drain installed, and I'd have them tie all downspouts into a separate drain system. Keep the water away from the house.

Agree with the 10-foot ceiling in the basement. gives you room to put in isolating soundproofing for a ManCave with a projector-based system. Also, if you are thinking of a ManCave in the basement, put in a "false" wall about 3-4 feet from your foundation wall. I put a door at one side and use it to easily access all of my A/V equipment, without the cords showing in the main room. Then put your screen and audio equipment, blu-ray, etc., on the false wall (with proper bracing as described above).

Control4. I like the long-term prospects of that stock. Hope you, as an employee or owner, agree!

 

[Soaring Eagle 74]

No wood siding. Vinyl is final. No wooden windows. Which way will your house face? If it faces south, and you have huge windows, it will cost more to cool it.

Both my houses face south but I also have big front porches on both. Makes a big difference on heat take-up.

 

[Mntneer]

Agree with the 10-foot ceiling in the basement. gives you room to put in isolating soundproofing for a ManCave with a projector-based system. Also, if you are thinking of a ManCave in the basement, put in a "false" wall about 3-4 feet from your foundation wall. I put a door at one side and use it to easily access all of my A/V equipment, without the cords showing in the main room. Then put your screen and audio equipment, blu-ray, etc., on the false wall (with proper bracing as described above).

Control4. I like the long-term prospects of that stock. Hope you, as an employee or owner, agree!

Dunedein...We are a licensed dealer for Control4. It's a system I have known about for about 15 years, and took the leap to be a dealer about 4 years ago. The CI market is expect to see double digit growth in '18, and Control4 is one of the leaders in the industry it was a no brainer for us. Stable system architecture that can integrate with a huge variety of components, there's not much you can't integrate with it. I'll be attending my first CEDIA convention this coming fall and can't wait.

I actually did 12' Top of Slab to Bottom of Truss in my basement, so I can get 10' ceilings in the theater, as to accommodate a riser. I'm still in the process of installing drywall in-between my trusses, and once that's done I'll be installing my isolation clips and framing my walls. A great site for people that want more information on acoustics and sound dampening for homes, this site "http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/" It is owned by guys that have been in the business forever, and they'll talk with you about your needs, give solid advice, etc.